Hello, Seattle

After I left Glacier national park, I drove due south west to rendezvous with I-90. From there, I passed through the narrow strip of Idaho that is up there (near Coeur D Alene), which I believe is mostly mining and mountain country. I pulled off the highway to get some gas for the car, but wan't too much to see, and before I knew it, I was in Washington!

I stopped and drove around downtown Spokane quickly, mostly to say that I'd at least seen it. It's a tiny town, but has a hopping little downtown (I think there was an event going on?). I calculated how long it'd take me to get to Seattle (my endpoint for the first leg of the journey), and if there was anything to see between here and there. As my family lives in Seattle, I had been to bits of eastern Washington, so I decided it wasn't worth spending the night out here, so I booked it right to Seattle (also, there is SO LITTLE in Eastern Washington. Honestly, fill up your gas tank in Spokane before heading into that desolate, rest stop-less land).

Ahh, Seattle. The emerald city of the pacific northwest. My family has lived here the last few years, so this is likely my most-frequented city I travel to. So I'll take this opportunity to try and sell Seattle to those who are curious! So why is Seattle great?

Family

OK that's cheating. This applies to a limited number of people reading this, but it matters! When one considers traveling, and all the excitement it encompasses, still nothing compares to the feeling of "coming home". I'm lucky enough to get this feeling in a couple of places (Upstate NY, where I'm from originally being the other). A place to put up your feet and laugh wit those who know you best is the best kind of place. Wherever that is for you, never take it for granted, and go there often.

Travel tip- consider tarting a family here, or forcing your parents to move here. Then you'll have an excuse.

City Vibes

...but not TOO much. I think cities are great, and I love visiting them. Growing up within reasonable driving distance from NYC is a rare treat, and visiting Chicago on the way out here was awesome (see that post). Seattle early bumps elbows with the big east towns when it comes to that feeling of "being downtown". High rises, the crowds, the architecture, it's got it all. What I like about Seattle though, is it don'ts feel too big. It has held on to it's fishing and outdoor outfitter roots (think way station en route to Alaska back in the day), which makes it approachable, and comfortable.

Travel tip- start your morning in Pikes Place, and head down to the waterfront. Walk down to Pioneer square for exploring and lunch in Chinatown. Work your way back up any street to pass museums, shops, the Library, etc. The needle is at the north end. Makes for a 1 or 2 day little loop.

Natural Beauty

This is what sets Seattle apart in my mind. Few cities allow you to have mountains on three sides, a gorgeous water landscape, and still be lush and green almost all year round. The Olympic mountains, a fairly close together collection of jagged peaks (easy not the eyes), lie across the Puget Sound to the west. The Cascade mountains (reminiscent of the Rockies, with their broader peaks and larger range) lie to the East. And who can forget the prominent Mt. Rainier, almost the Symbol of the NW, who stands dramatically to the south.

Travel tip- Go to Kerry Park for the quintessential view of the City and Mt. Rainier in the background. Head east to Issaquah to get closer to the Cascades, or north for nice views of the Puget Sound.

Weather

Seattle gets a lot of flak for having terrible weather. Now, being from Syracuse, NY, perhaps anywhere seems better to me. However, I'm here to quickly state that no, it does not rain all day fro 365 days a year. Seattle still has a four-season feel to it, with two predominant "dry" and "wet" seasons. From late Spring through Fall, the rain mostly stops, and it's beautiful, sunny days. It's really fantastic. Toward the end of the fall and through spring, it starts to drizzle on a regular basis for most days. It's not the down pour that east coasters are used to, but it is consistent. Contrary to a lot of opinions I've heard, most locals LOVE the rain, and look forward to it every year. It's cozy, it's lush, it keeps things green. Seattle, going green since...ever.

Travel tip- August is my favorite time of year to come here. Views are perfect, weather is great.

Well, that's my shout out to Seattle. I'll spend the next week visiting my family and enjoying being home. Enjoy the pictures, and I'll update when I head into Oregon!

Into Glacier (a 2-day post)

Glacier National Park. It's one of the most prized national parks our nation offers, and for good reason. Nestled far and away from the nearest major Interstate, on the border of British Colombia and Alberta, this park is wilderness at its finest. Its remoteness, raw beauty, and powerful scenery is a reminder where America got its beautiful. I left Helena, Montana early morning, and made the trek northward. It's several hours due north, and out of the way of the beaten path of interstate 90. You've got to commit to going to Glacier- and let me say it's worth it. At the advice of a few locals, from Helena I headed north toward Augusta, and drove the lesser traveled roads to the park (Rt 287 to 89, to Browning, where you'll see signs to Glacier popping up). This was well worth the drive, as it was remote, peaceful and beautiful. Montana has made that impression on me; it is a state of wide open, raw scenery. It makes you think of adventure, and wonder what's around the next corner or town down the road. I particularly enjoy that feeling, and Montana delivered it.

I headed into Glacier National Park from the Eastern border. I stopped into the St. Mary HQ and obtained a backcountry permit. After a 15 minute safety video on not attacking grizzly bears after they come after you, I had the documentation to hike into the wilderness and set up camp. I admit, it was an honest ix of excitement and healthy nervousness. As I drove back down the east side of the park to Two Medicine area, the sheer immensity of the wilderness in front of me become more and more apparent. This wasn't a walk in the park. This was the real, unadulterated, untamed wild. This trip was not without risk.

I parked my car at the trail head, and started my very easy/modest 5 miles hike towards my campsite. I had no way of gauging the terrain, as I had never been before, so I chose a conservative route, especially as I was hiking solo, a not-suggested idea in this part of the country. After arriving at my site (alone), I settled in and became very aware of just how remote I was. I heard soft rain, some birds and occasional unidentified animal sounds, but mostly wind. I heard the wind echoing of the mountain sides around me. It was blowing through the small meadow I was set up in, and running through my jacket. I felt chilly, cold, and very alone. Almost on cue, a fairly enormous moose snatched a twig of the branch about 5 meters to my left. I froze initially, then backed away, and we left each other alone. This would be 1/4 of my moose encounters that little trip. At that moment I felt very alone. But I felt at peace, and I knew at that moment that this is where I belonged. I love the mountains, and of that I could never be more sure.

Now, at this point in the year, there are still quite a few forest fires blazing in our western states. 3 large fires are currently occurring inside Glacier National Park. This was almost a deterrent to my going there, as I had heard reports of zero visibility and only the sight of smoke. I threw my dice by driving north anyway, and I got lucky. Now, it was rainy the entire time I was there, but this dissipated the smoke!

Some would say unlucky weather, but I'd rather have some rain that smoke everywhere. Also, I think mountains are most beautiful when they seem powerful, and rain, fog, and cold only adds to the mystique and beauty of mountains. I had a great time in the backwoods. It's also a lesson in staying flexible. Travel is all about plans changing and you being able to adapt to those changes, weather being a major factor! Well, tomorrow is away from Glacier into Washington, Chapter 1 of this journey is coming to a close!

Into Montana

Well, I didn't really hide anything with that title. Today was another good day on my journey to Seattle from Syracuse, NY. I covered a lot of ground, and saw a couple neat things on the way! Woke up near Devil's Tower, Wyoming and gave myself an easy morning. OK so I had a FaceTime meeting with an East coast doc, but still, it was nice to have a later start to the day. After that I headed to the tower itself...and saw the DEVIL IN IT. But seriously, it's a pretty stunning site, and the ranch-esque hills provide a perfect backdrop to this natural monument. Pretty neat to think of Native Americans and early settlers seeing this tower just like we do now.

A quick pit stop at a random bar/restaurant in Moorcroft, WY (complete with jukebox, pool tables, cowboy hat-wearing cowboys, and a menu full of meat), then I hit the road. After that I pretty much hope don Rt. 90 and drove and drove.

I did make a stop at the Battle of Little Bighorn National Monument. It's right of I-90 and really worth the stop. This is where the famed Custer's last stand took place as the U.S. 7th Cavalry battled Sitting Bull and a host of nations, including the Lakota and Cheyenne. They, again, do a fantastic job with these monuments. There's a great pensiveness that comes being at a place like that- seeing the very spot where Custer and his men decided to stand and fight-till-death. It also brings up a lot of controversial thoughts about the bleaker parts of our history, and the relationship (then and now) with Native Americans peoples.

I finished out the day by driving clear to Helena, Montana (pronounced Hell-uh-na). I'm couch surfing tonight (great way to meet people and save money) with some really great people. We went downtown to see their friend play at a bar. Lots of fun seeing a bit of culture and nightlife on this journey. Tomorrow I'm off North!

'Merica

  Today was a day full of back road meanderings, and I landed at one of America's most iconic sites. Now, in case some of the readers don't know- I'm going this current All-American road trip using AAA roads maps alone. No GPS, not even my iPhone. I remember random scenes from movies growing up where the dad is driving, trying to fold a map all at once, and everybody is yelling. Minus the company- that is almost entirely true. I yell at myself. It's great.

I'm well into my trip at this point, and I've gotten into a bit of a groove when it comes to my map reading skills. I remember doing a similar trip with my brother a few years ago the same way. It takes a bit to get used to, but once you recognize the patterns, you realize just how freeing it is to not use a Navi of any sort. No more worrying about time of arrival- just look at the miles and think about your speed. No more worrying about which exit to get off in a city- just look at the main streets, follow signs for downtown, you'll be OK. The best part though, is a sense of discovery you get when arriving to various destinations. It's that sense of "I've found you!", instead of "yup, I'm here". Subtle perhaps, but makes a big difference when hauling long miles.

I spent the morning on the Oregon Trail at Scottsbluff, NE. There's a great little hiking trail you can take that brings you to actual remnants of the trail itself. Here at Scottsbluff, wagons had to single file through the ravine, making large ruts, some of which are still visible today! Pretty neat to think about the fact that I'm looking up at this bluff with a sense of American pride, and so did the emigrants from years ago. Cool.

Then I headed north into South Dakota. I went via Agate Fossil bed (I won't lie, kinda anticlimactic, though some good views of prairie along the way). Then it was grassland. As far as you can see. It was very impressive, and something I had never quite seen before (always a neat feeling). I'd seen grassland in Turkey before, but never to the extent that I saw yesterday.

I stopped at the site of the Wounded Knee Massacre- a reminder of the less-proud moments of our history.

Then it was on toward the Badlands. Let me tell you- if I was stranded out here, I would probably die by sunset. Expansive, dry, windy, hot, rocky. Yikes. Needless to say, it was a beautiful sight to see. I went through Badlands National Park (honestly- our Natn'l Park System is incredible), and even saw some wildlife! That moment when I'm just minding my business taking photos and a group of Bighorn sheep come UP THE CLIFF right in front of you. That was definitely special and exciting.

Finally, I made my way to Keystone and saw the Big One. By that I mean the Big 4. By that I mean I went to Mt. Rushmore. It's a beautiful site, and incredibly well maintained. The complex and trail are pristine. I will warn you though- the parking is privately owned so your Annual Pas is worthless! $11. Grr. But I'd still say it was worth it.

I headed into Wyoming before bedding don for the night outside of Hulett, Wyoming. I tried my hand at "astrophotography". The night sky was gorgeous and it took me a while before deciding I should probably get my camera out and try to capture it all. Enjoy the photos!

The Scenic Route

 

Today was definitely an off-the-beaten-path sort of day. Well, I should say, from the beaten path to a less beaten path that's prettier and more scenic. I'm driving a corolla across the country- not a hummer. I started today in Omaha, and made sure I was the first in line to the Henry Doorly Zoo! I love zoos- it's a thing of mine- so I could't let this one pass me by. It's considered on of the best and I would stand by that! A phenomenal gorilla habitat.

I then hopped onto I-80 and headed to Lincoln, for a quick visit to the state capitol building. I won't lie- this is one of the best ones I've seen! In city of mostly smaller office buildings, this pinnacle of good 'ol country government stands out quite impressively. I grabbed some lunch at the yelp-suggested Sultan's Kite where I had the best chicken shawarma I've had. Move over NYC, Lincoln is honing in your shawarma game. I little bit further west on I-80 until Grand Island where I jumped onto Route 2...for a long time.

Nebraska Route 2 is considered one the country's most scenic routes (this term also seems interchangeable with iconic, though this was in fact scenic!). It juts diagonally NW across the state without reservations, and goes clear though the grassland heart of Nebraska, known as the Sandhills. Absolutely gorgeous. Miles and miles of quickly rolling hills of grassland. The road is in good condition too, which always makes it pleasant. Fill up on gas though, as most of the towns are 10-15 homes huddled together.

I finished Route 2 at Alliance, and then decided I better head south the 30 miles to check out Chimney Rock and Scottsbluff, both national parks/monuments. So that's where I'm writing this from. Will check those out and head due north tomorrow for South Dakota!