Eastern Oregon

[slider effect="fade" pausetime="3000" autoplay="true" navigation="true"][/slider] Excited for the day ahead! I got up nice and early and rendezvoused with a fellow traveler and local I'll call "Mary" for security purposes (lol?). We started by heading straight up to Crate Lake National Park. This is about an hour drive north of Klamath Falls, making this little town a great jumping off point. It's full of nice little restaurants, and the usual amenities that a traveler looking to stock up and refresh needs.

As we approached Crater Lake, the bad news began- in the form of rain. I remained positive, knowing that sometimes some clouds make for some dramatic pictures (remember Glacier?). Well, Crater Lake is a couple of thousand feet in elevation from the surrounding valley, so that rain started turning into its winter counterpart pretty quickly. Still, we pressed on, and although it was lightly snowing at the park entrance, I wasn't coming all this way not to try at least.

And it was least. We climbed up the park road in dense fog and the trees were powdered with fresh snow. At the top (based on signs telling me I was at various overlooks), I could see...nothing. The drive was quiet (no crowds that day), I could hear the snow hitting the trees, and there was something still so beautiful about it. And yes, that's me being as positive about the experience as possible.

So down we went, and left Crater for another day. We headed instead into California (just barely- but it counts!) and to Lava Beds National Monument.

This park surprised me! There is subtle difference between the national parks and monuments, mostly being that monuments are smaller and more drive throughs (though, that's not always the case- so i guess a mixed bag, or some nomenclature rule I'm not aware of with, assumably, a politician and naturalist duking it out over a table). Anyways, this is set along a small hilly ridge, overlooking a large valley (a former giant volcano caldera from ages ago). The highlight of the monument are the multiple caves that were formed as lava flows dissipated. They are fully open to explore, and it was a lot of fun! Some nice views of the region as well.

Well I stayed another night in Klamath Falls, and next morning headed out. I'll admit, yes, I passed by Crater for another chance, but it was the same story as the day before, so onward I went. Before passing through Bend, OR, I jumped into the Newberry National Volcanic Monument, where, admittedly, the only interesting thing was a large obsidian flow. I cannot confirm or deny if i snagged a piece of obsidian lying helplessly on the ground.

Eastern Oregon was now in front of me. I connected with Route 20 in Bend, OR (another shoutout to Rt 20!), and it was now due East until Boise, ID. I'm going to lay it on the table... there is VERY LITTLE to see between Bend and Boise. This is rural America at its best- tiny towns that were mostly homes to ranchers or farmers, a gas station and maybe a place to eat. It was some beautiful country- an element of high desert that I hadn't quite had the chance to experience. The sky was big, sun was out, and it made for a beautiful drive.

Although the drive was a long one, it gave me time to A). finish an audiobook (Stephen King- Wolves of the Calla), and B). Have a nice day of reflecting and observing some nice geography. I've already mentioned the high desert- an arid scrubland that covers most of Eastern Oregon. However, as I got further East, the land gave way to incredibly large valleys with surrounding mountains. We've all seen mountains and valleys, but I felt like this landscape took it, and stretched it to cover miles and miles. It felt imposing, and I felt very small in the world, being in the middle of seemingly nowhere. It was beautiful. Another reminder to find that beauty in all things, and how travel allows us to do so. To explore new places, and see something your eye has ever quite seen before. That's why I travel. Until next time!

Into Oregon

  My time in Seattle was fantastic, and alas, all good things  must come to an end, and I must move onward. Feeling refreshed and full of that "cozy home" goodness feeling, I headed south into Oregon, a new state for me!

I hopped on I-5 and shot due south- it's only about 3 horus from Seattle to Portland, so it comes as a surprise even to myself that I had never been there before. I stopped in Vancouver, WA to replace my wiper blades. There is an excellent Walmart there, in case anyone needs to know that. It's across the Colombia River from Portland, so in just a few minutes I was in Portlandia, wiggling my way through the suburbs.

Downtown Portland surprised me with it's geography-  it sits quite nicely against the riverfront and against a hillside. Makes for a pretty scene. I found a parking post downtown, and started walking around. I wasn't here for a true visit, more of a fly-by. Nevertheless, I went to Powell's Books (a massive, square-block sized bookstore), got some food cart Pad Thai, and walked over to Voodoo Donuts to get a piece of that. Food cart- excellent. Powell's books- pretty decent (kinda felt like a cross between a B&N and an old used book store), and Voodoo donuts was actually pretty tasty!

After Portland, I headed south to Salem, for a quick visit of the Capitol building (a recurring theme on my trip, if it's relatively convenient). Then I headed on some back roads to meet up with Route 20 and off to the Oregon coast. I grew up a few minutes from Route 20, and it's always been fun to think about how it spans from Boston, MA to Newport, OR. I've been on it a few times during my journey, and it was a little "win" to drive it to it's final point in Newport.

The Oregon coast lives up to its fame. Predominantly rocky, transitioning from cliffs to bluffs, to relatively shallow sand dunes, it complement the Pacific Ocean nicely. I timed it pretty well with sunset, making for that "all is right in the world" feeling while you drive.

And speaking of the drive- highway 101 is great! There are a few stretches that hug the coast on the sides of cliffs, and I'm a big fan of roads like that. I drove until dark, then bedded down for the night in Coos Bay.

The next morning I headed back east on Route 42, getting back to I-5. I drove through some beautiful forest, and saw a pretty neat covered bridge! Once I met up with I-5, the goal was to get to Klamath Falls, to act as a base for exploring Crater Lake and Lava Beds National Monument.

The drive down I-5 and over via Rt 140 went through some mountain passes, not as high as the rockies, but nevertheless a pretty drive. The Cascades are a slightly more arid look to them vs the Rockies, but no shortage on lines trees. Now in Klamath Falls, and will start adventuring in some more national parks tomorrow!

Hello, Seattle

After I left Glacier national park, I drove due south west to rendezvous with I-90. From there, I passed through the narrow strip of Idaho that is up there (near Coeur D Alene), which I believe is mostly mining and mountain country. I pulled off the highway to get some gas for the car, but wan't too much to see, and before I knew it, I was in Washington!

I stopped and drove around downtown Spokane quickly, mostly to say that I'd at least seen it. It's a tiny town, but has a hopping little downtown (I think there was an event going on?). I calculated how long it'd take me to get to Seattle (my endpoint for the first leg of the journey), and if there was anything to see between here and there. As my family lives in Seattle, I had been to bits of eastern Washington, so I decided it wasn't worth spending the night out here, so I booked it right to Seattle (also, there is SO LITTLE in Eastern Washington. Honestly, fill up your gas tank in Spokane before heading into that desolate, rest stop-less land).

Ahh, Seattle. The emerald city of the pacific northwest. My family has lived here the last few years, so this is likely my most-frequented city I travel to. So I'll take this opportunity to try and sell Seattle to those who are curious! So why is Seattle great?

Family

OK that's cheating. This applies to a limited number of people reading this, but it matters! When one considers traveling, and all the excitement it encompasses, still nothing compares to the feeling of "coming home". I'm lucky enough to get this feeling in a couple of places (Upstate NY, where I'm from originally being the other). A place to put up your feet and laugh wit those who know you best is the best kind of place. Wherever that is for you, never take it for granted, and go there often.

Travel tip- consider tarting a family here, or forcing your parents to move here. Then you'll have an excuse.

City Vibes

...but not TOO much. I think cities are great, and I love visiting them. Growing up within reasonable driving distance from NYC is a rare treat, and visiting Chicago on the way out here was awesome (see that post). Seattle early bumps elbows with the big east towns when it comes to that feeling of "being downtown". High rises, the crowds, the architecture, it's got it all. What I like about Seattle though, is it don'ts feel too big. It has held on to it's fishing and outdoor outfitter roots (think way station en route to Alaska back in the day), which makes it approachable, and comfortable.

Travel tip- start your morning in Pikes Place, and head down to the waterfront. Walk down to Pioneer square for exploring and lunch in Chinatown. Work your way back up any street to pass museums, shops, the Library, etc. The needle is at the north end. Makes for a 1 or 2 day little loop.

Natural Beauty

This is what sets Seattle apart in my mind. Few cities allow you to have mountains on three sides, a gorgeous water landscape, and still be lush and green almost all year round. The Olympic mountains, a fairly close together collection of jagged peaks (easy not the eyes), lie across the Puget Sound to the west. The Cascade mountains (reminiscent of the Rockies, with their broader peaks and larger range) lie to the East. And who can forget the prominent Mt. Rainier, almost the Symbol of the NW, who stands dramatically to the south.

Travel tip- Go to Kerry Park for the quintessential view of the City and Mt. Rainier in the background. Head east to Issaquah to get closer to the Cascades, or north for nice views of the Puget Sound.

Weather

Seattle gets a lot of flak for having terrible weather. Now, being from Syracuse, NY, perhaps anywhere seems better to me. However, I'm here to quickly state that no, it does not rain all day fro 365 days a year. Seattle still has a four-season feel to it, with two predominant "dry" and "wet" seasons. From late Spring through Fall, the rain mostly stops, and it's beautiful, sunny days. It's really fantastic. Toward the end of the fall and through spring, it starts to drizzle on a regular basis for most days. It's not the down pour that east coasters are used to, but it is consistent. Contrary to a lot of opinions I've heard, most locals LOVE the rain, and look forward to it every year. It's cozy, it's lush, it keeps things green. Seattle, going green since...ever.

Travel tip- August is my favorite time of year to come here. Views are perfect, weather is great.

Well, that's my shout out to Seattle. I'll spend the next week visiting my family and enjoying being home. Enjoy the pictures, and I'll update when I head into Oregon!

Into Glacier (a 2-day post)

Glacier National Park. It's one of the most prized national parks our nation offers, and for good reason. Nestled far and away from the nearest major Interstate, on the border of British Colombia and Alberta, this park is wilderness at its finest. Its remoteness, raw beauty, and powerful scenery is a reminder where America got its beautiful. I left Helena, Montana early morning, and made the trek northward. It's several hours due north, and out of the way of the beaten path of interstate 90. You've got to commit to going to Glacier- and let me say it's worth it. At the advice of a few locals, from Helena I headed north toward Augusta, and drove the lesser traveled roads to the park (Rt 287 to 89, to Browning, where you'll see signs to Glacier popping up). This was well worth the drive, as it was remote, peaceful and beautiful. Montana has made that impression on me; it is a state of wide open, raw scenery. It makes you think of adventure, and wonder what's around the next corner or town down the road. I particularly enjoy that feeling, and Montana delivered it.

I headed into Glacier National Park from the Eastern border. I stopped into the St. Mary HQ and obtained a backcountry permit. After a 15 minute safety video on not attacking grizzly bears after they come after you, I had the documentation to hike into the wilderness and set up camp. I admit, it was an honest ix of excitement and healthy nervousness. As I drove back down the east side of the park to Two Medicine area, the sheer immensity of the wilderness in front of me become more and more apparent. This wasn't a walk in the park. This was the real, unadulterated, untamed wild. This trip was not without risk.

I parked my car at the trail head, and started my very easy/modest 5 miles hike towards my campsite. I had no way of gauging the terrain, as I had never been before, so I chose a conservative route, especially as I was hiking solo, a not-suggested idea in this part of the country. After arriving at my site (alone), I settled in and became very aware of just how remote I was. I heard soft rain, some birds and occasional unidentified animal sounds, but mostly wind. I heard the wind echoing of the mountain sides around me. It was blowing through the small meadow I was set up in, and running through my jacket. I felt chilly, cold, and very alone. Almost on cue, a fairly enormous moose snatched a twig of the branch about 5 meters to my left. I froze initially, then backed away, and we left each other alone. This would be 1/4 of my moose encounters that little trip. At that moment I felt very alone. But I felt at peace, and I knew at that moment that this is where I belonged. I love the mountains, and of that I could never be more sure.

Now, at this point in the year, there are still quite a few forest fires blazing in our western states. 3 large fires are currently occurring inside Glacier National Park. This was almost a deterrent to my going there, as I had heard reports of zero visibility and only the sight of smoke. I threw my dice by driving north anyway, and I got lucky. Now, it was rainy the entire time I was there, but this dissipated the smoke!

Some would say unlucky weather, but I'd rather have some rain that smoke everywhere. Also, I think mountains are most beautiful when they seem powerful, and rain, fog, and cold only adds to the mystique and beauty of mountains. I had a great time in the backwoods. It's also a lesson in staying flexible. Travel is all about plans changing and you being able to adapt to those changes, weather being a major factor! Well, tomorrow is away from Glacier into Washington, Chapter 1 of this journey is coming to a close!

Into Montana

Well, I didn't really hide anything with that title. Today was another good day on my journey to Seattle from Syracuse, NY. I covered a lot of ground, and saw a couple neat things on the way! Woke up near Devil's Tower, Wyoming and gave myself an easy morning. OK so I had a FaceTime meeting with an East coast doc, but still, it was nice to have a later start to the day. After that I headed to the tower itself...and saw the DEVIL IN IT. But seriously, it's a pretty stunning site, and the ranch-esque hills provide a perfect backdrop to this natural monument. Pretty neat to think of Native Americans and early settlers seeing this tower just like we do now.

A quick pit stop at a random bar/restaurant in Moorcroft, WY (complete with jukebox, pool tables, cowboy hat-wearing cowboys, and a menu full of meat), then I hit the road. After that I pretty much hope don Rt. 90 and drove and drove.

I did make a stop at the Battle of Little Bighorn National Monument. It's right of I-90 and really worth the stop. This is where the famed Custer's last stand took place as the U.S. 7th Cavalry battled Sitting Bull and a host of nations, including the Lakota and Cheyenne. They, again, do a fantastic job with these monuments. There's a great pensiveness that comes being at a place like that- seeing the very spot where Custer and his men decided to stand and fight-till-death. It also brings up a lot of controversial thoughts about the bleaker parts of our history, and the relationship (then and now) with Native Americans peoples.

I finished out the day by driving clear to Helena, Montana (pronounced Hell-uh-na). I'm couch surfing tonight (great way to meet people and save money) with some really great people. We went downtown to see their friend play at a bar. Lots of fun seeing a bit of culture and nightlife on this journey. Tomorrow I'm off North!