Into Glacier (a 2-day post)

Glacier National Park. It's one of the most prized national parks our nation offers, and for good reason. Nestled far and away from the nearest major Interstate, on the border of British Colombia and Alberta, this park is wilderness at its finest. Its remoteness, raw beauty, and powerful scenery is a reminder where America got its beautiful. I left Helena, Montana early morning, and made the trek northward. It's several hours due north, and out of the way of the beaten path of interstate 90. You've got to commit to going to Glacier- and let me say it's worth it. At the advice of a few locals, from Helena I headed north toward Augusta, and drove the lesser traveled roads to the park (Rt 287 to 89, to Browning, where you'll see signs to Glacier popping up). This was well worth the drive, as it was remote, peaceful and beautiful. Montana has made that impression on me; it is a state of wide open, raw scenery. It makes you think of adventure, and wonder what's around the next corner or town down the road. I particularly enjoy that feeling, and Montana delivered it.

I headed into Glacier National Park from the Eastern border. I stopped into the St. Mary HQ and obtained a backcountry permit. After a 15 minute safety video on not attacking grizzly bears after they come after you, I had the documentation to hike into the wilderness and set up camp. I admit, it was an honest ix of excitement and healthy nervousness. As I drove back down the east side of the park to Two Medicine area, the sheer immensity of the wilderness in front of me become more and more apparent. This wasn't a walk in the park. This was the real, unadulterated, untamed wild. This trip was not without risk.

I parked my car at the trail head, and started my very easy/modest 5 miles hike towards my campsite. I had no way of gauging the terrain, as I had never been before, so I chose a conservative route, especially as I was hiking solo, a not-suggested idea in this part of the country. After arriving at my site (alone), I settled in and became very aware of just how remote I was. I heard soft rain, some birds and occasional unidentified animal sounds, but mostly wind. I heard the wind echoing of the mountain sides around me. It was blowing through the small meadow I was set up in, and running through my jacket. I felt chilly, cold, and very alone. Almost on cue, a fairly enormous moose snatched a twig of the branch about 5 meters to my left. I froze initially, then backed away, and we left each other alone. This would be 1/4 of my moose encounters that little trip. At that moment I felt very alone. But I felt at peace, and I knew at that moment that this is where I belonged. I love the mountains, and of that I could never be more sure.

Now, at this point in the year, there are still quite a few forest fires blazing in our western states. 3 large fires are currently occurring inside Glacier National Park. This was almost a deterrent to my going there, as I had heard reports of zero visibility and only the sight of smoke. I threw my dice by driving north anyway, and I got lucky. Now, it was rainy the entire time I was there, but this dissipated the smoke!

Some would say unlucky weather, but I'd rather have some rain that smoke everywhere. Also, I think mountains are most beautiful when they seem powerful, and rain, fog, and cold only adds to the mystique and beauty of mountains. I had a great time in the backwoods. It's also a lesson in staying flexible. Travel is all about plans changing and you being able to adapt to those changes, weather being a major factor! Well, tomorrow is away from Glacier into Washington, Chapter 1 of this journey is coming to a close!

Into Montana

Well, I didn't really hide anything with that title. Today was another good day on my journey to Seattle from Syracuse, NY. I covered a lot of ground, and saw a couple neat things on the way! Woke up near Devil's Tower, Wyoming and gave myself an easy morning. OK so I had a FaceTime meeting with an East coast doc, but still, it was nice to have a later start to the day. After that I headed to the tower itself...and saw the DEVIL IN IT. But seriously, it's a pretty stunning site, and the ranch-esque hills provide a perfect backdrop to this natural monument. Pretty neat to think of Native Americans and early settlers seeing this tower just like we do now.

A quick pit stop at a random bar/restaurant in Moorcroft, WY (complete with jukebox, pool tables, cowboy hat-wearing cowboys, and a menu full of meat), then I hit the road. After that I pretty much hope don Rt. 90 and drove and drove.

I did make a stop at the Battle of Little Bighorn National Monument. It's right of I-90 and really worth the stop. This is where the famed Custer's last stand took place as the U.S. 7th Cavalry battled Sitting Bull and a host of nations, including the Lakota and Cheyenne. They, again, do a fantastic job with these monuments. There's a great pensiveness that comes being at a place like that- seeing the very spot where Custer and his men decided to stand and fight-till-death. It also brings up a lot of controversial thoughts about the bleaker parts of our history, and the relationship (then and now) with Native Americans peoples.

I finished out the day by driving clear to Helena, Montana (pronounced Hell-uh-na). I'm couch surfing tonight (great way to meet people and save money) with some really great people. We went downtown to see their friend play at a bar. Lots of fun seeing a bit of culture and nightlife on this journey. Tomorrow I'm off North!

'Merica

  Today was a day full of back road meanderings, and I landed at one of America's most iconic sites. Now, in case some of the readers don't know- I'm going this current All-American road trip using AAA roads maps alone. No GPS, not even my iPhone. I remember random scenes from movies growing up where the dad is driving, trying to fold a map all at once, and everybody is yelling. Minus the company- that is almost entirely true. I yell at myself. It's great.

I'm well into my trip at this point, and I've gotten into a bit of a groove when it comes to my map reading skills. I remember doing a similar trip with my brother a few years ago the same way. It takes a bit to get used to, but once you recognize the patterns, you realize just how freeing it is to not use a Navi of any sort. No more worrying about time of arrival- just look at the miles and think about your speed. No more worrying about which exit to get off in a city- just look at the main streets, follow signs for downtown, you'll be OK. The best part though, is a sense of discovery you get when arriving to various destinations. It's that sense of "I've found you!", instead of "yup, I'm here". Subtle perhaps, but makes a big difference when hauling long miles.

I spent the morning on the Oregon Trail at Scottsbluff, NE. There's a great little hiking trail you can take that brings you to actual remnants of the trail itself. Here at Scottsbluff, wagons had to single file through the ravine, making large ruts, some of which are still visible today! Pretty neat to think about the fact that I'm looking up at this bluff with a sense of American pride, and so did the emigrants from years ago. Cool.

Then I headed north into South Dakota. I went via Agate Fossil bed (I won't lie, kinda anticlimactic, though some good views of prairie along the way). Then it was grassland. As far as you can see. It was very impressive, and something I had never quite seen before (always a neat feeling). I'd seen grassland in Turkey before, but never to the extent that I saw yesterday.

I stopped at the site of the Wounded Knee Massacre- a reminder of the less-proud moments of our history.

Then it was on toward the Badlands. Let me tell you- if I was stranded out here, I would probably die by sunset. Expansive, dry, windy, hot, rocky. Yikes. Needless to say, it was a beautiful sight to see. I went through Badlands National Park (honestly- our Natn'l Park System is incredible), and even saw some wildlife! That moment when I'm just minding my business taking photos and a group of Bighorn sheep come UP THE CLIFF right in front of you. That was definitely special and exciting.

Finally, I made my way to Keystone and saw the Big One. By that I mean the Big 4. By that I mean I went to Mt. Rushmore. It's a beautiful site, and incredibly well maintained. The complex and trail are pristine. I will warn you though- the parking is privately owned so your Annual Pas is worthless! $11. Grr. But I'd still say it was worth it.

I headed into Wyoming before bedding don for the night outside of Hulett, Wyoming. I tried my hand at "astrophotography". The night sky was gorgeous and it took me a while before deciding I should probably get my camera out and try to capture it all. Enjoy the photos!

The Scenic Route

 

Today was definitely an off-the-beaten-path sort of day. Well, I should say, from the beaten path to a less beaten path that's prettier and more scenic. I'm driving a corolla across the country- not a hummer. I started today in Omaha, and made sure I was the first in line to the Henry Doorly Zoo! I love zoos- it's a thing of mine- so I could't let this one pass me by. It's considered on of the best and I would stand by that! A phenomenal gorilla habitat.

I then hopped onto I-80 and headed to Lincoln, for a quick visit to the state capitol building. I won't lie- this is one of the best ones I've seen! In city of mostly smaller office buildings, this pinnacle of good 'ol country government stands out quite impressively. I grabbed some lunch at the yelp-suggested Sultan's Kite where I had the best chicken shawarma I've had. Move over NYC, Lincoln is honing in your shawarma game. I little bit further west on I-80 until Grand Island where I jumped onto Route 2...for a long time.

Nebraska Route 2 is considered one the country's most scenic routes (this term also seems interchangeable with iconic, though this was in fact scenic!). It juts diagonally NW across the state without reservations, and goes clear though the grassland heart of Nebraska, known as the Sandhills. Absolutely gorgeous. Miles and miles of quickly rolling hills of grassland. The road is in good condition too, which always makes it pleasant. Fill up on gas though, as most of the towns are 10-15 homes huddled together.

I finished Route 2 at Alliance, and then decided I better head south the 30 miles to check out Chimney Rock and Scottsbluff, both national parks/monuments. So that's where I'm writing this from. Will check those out and head due north tomorrow for South Dakota!

Country Road

 

There's nothing like a small town. The cricket and cicadas buzzing in the background, the sounds of people talking in small conversations, and the occasional burrr of a car driving by. This is small town America, and from what is quickly becoming clear on this journey out west, this is most of America.

I grew up in a small town; graduated 80-something people from my high school class. Everybody knew everybody, and I can still remember the bus route we took, and where everyone lived. Sure, that meant more people "in your business", but small town Americans have a charm about us. It's really that we care, and think it takes a village to get stuff done. Sure, city-dwellers can be gentle and welcoming too, but there's nothing quite like good 'ol country folk.

I drove through Illinois and Iowa today (spending tonight in Omaha, NE). I made a point, as I ways do, to get off the highway for a bit and drive some smaller roads. Interstates all start looking the same after a while (plus it's a great cure for getting road sleepy- smaller roads keep you awake!), and these roads hug the contours, and get you into the parts-unknown (to outsiders, that is). I was pleasantly surprised by stumbling onto Sacred Rock State Park in Illinois. I was actually hunting down Utica, IL, since I'm from nearby Utica, NY. It's a fantastic park, and worth checking out! But all this driving in these gorgeous, lesser known areas got me thinking all philosophical-like: why do we get so "bored" without constant stimulation?

I won't actually attempt to answer it- I'm not that good at blogging yet. But I can say that people from bigger cities (NYC cough NYC) tend to complain of the lack of "things to do" in small cities. Boy, I'd like to show them Utica, IL, or Grinnel, IA. Now, that by no means is wrong, or even untrue- I mean I love cities, I really do (see Chicago post) it's just a different perspective of things. Now, comparing any town to NYC will probably leave the opinion wanting, but it's worth thinking about how your outlook effects your happiness.

Small towns show the value of being quiet, slowing down, and letting your thoughts, well, be thoughts. Instead of puzzling through something, how often do we drown it out with media, a text, a game on the i-whatever. Being out here lets one think, and that's a good thing. Also, it's beautiful to look at too. Food for thought!