Dushanbe to border: From the Green House Hostel (highly recommended), I took Mashrukta/City cab number 8 all the way to the end (8 somani ). Here, I hopped off and asked for a cab to the border, which cost me about 40 somani, shared. That cab goes right up to the border, which is pretty isolated. Here I exchanged Somani into Uzbek Som in order to get on my feet. Beware: they’ll try to change at the bank rate, but make sure yo haggle for the black market rate if you can. The truth is, the majority of Uzbekistan operates on the back market rate, so you really ought to just go with it. When I went, bank rate was about 3000 Som:1 USD. Black market averages about 6400 Som: 1 USD. So you’ll have to do some math coming from Somani, but get a good rate. Worse case scenario, you’ll need about 150K Som to make it to Termez the local way, so get at least that much.
Border is easy to walk through. On the other side, an army of taxis will be waiting to take you into Denau, you can haggle prices a bit, but supply and demand will kinda stick it to you. I paid 15K Som to Denau, shared, and it took about 20 minutes.
In Denau, you’ll be dropped off at the taxi/bus station. From there I hopped onto a shared taxi going to Termez, which was pretty easy to find. I paid 20K Som if I remember correctly, and the ride took a few hours. This a good time to mention that distance and prices NEVER match up in Uzbekistan, and it’s honestly just kinda confusing. Just argue for the best price you can.
I got to Termez about 4pm, and decided I’d make to jaunt to Afghanistan same day and avoid paying for a (what I heard was pricey) hotel there and then Afghanistan next day. Termez is a bit confusing, with a very small taxi stand going longer distances, an assortment of marshuktas, and painfully minimal taxis on the street. Most cabs wanted to charge me about 50K to the border (called “Hiraton”). Mashrukta #255 will take you there directly, and cost almost nothing. I ended up having tea with a really random guy, and then paid a cab 15K to take me there. I’d rather have done the masrukta.
Border was relatively easy. Got there around 5:30 (tea time got in the way of things), and it was basically dead. It still took a while to go through all my bags on the Uzbek side, but was painless. After that, there was a long walk across the friendship bridge and into Afghanistan. Border on Afghan side was very easy, asked me where I was going, stamped, and didn’t go through my bags.
Once through customs, walk through the gate and sandbags (yup…), and walk straight until you find a cab. It’s a pretty hardline $20 USD or 1000 Afghani to Mazar-i-sharif. I didn’t even ask questions, since it was getting dark and kinda just wanted to get there with no issues. There was nowhere to change money at this border by the way, but the USD is accepted and preferred anyhow.
Took about an hour to get to Mazar, with no traffic (NOT the 20-30 minutes LP states). I stayed at the Barat hotel, which is right downtown next to the Blue Mosque, safe, clean enough, running water, but limping wifi. It was $50 with my own bathroom.
Next day I walked around the mosque, which was gorgeous. People were very friendly, and I never felt like I was in danger personally. It should be noted, however, that this isn’t a place to be flippant with your tourist status. This is still one of the most dangerous countries (Cheak World Peace Index) on the planet, and news about a tourist in town will get around faster than you think). So after one night in the hotel, and a great time walking around the Mosque, Bazaar, and downtown a bit, I did all of the above in reverse.
The hotel arranged a cab to pick me up there and bring me to the border for the $20 again. Then it was across the border, and hopped a cab into Termex proper.
I hope these details help other travelers with this border. It’s very straight forward, and without the thought of it being Afghanistan, is a really simple/painless border. I would say Mazar is your only safe spot to travel too right now (or Ishkashim in the Pamirs), and I wouldn’t try to be cocky about it. The mosque was gorgeous, the people so, so nice, and I had some great conversations. It was worth it, and if you’re willing to pay the money for the visa, I think this is a nice little end to any official Pamir highway end/beginning. Hope it helps!
-BK
